Cushion, Emerald, Asscher… Which Gemstone Cut Should You Choose?
Cushion, oval, emerald, Asscher, princess, pear… A stone's cut is not merely a matter of shape: it governs its brilliance, its style, and even its price. Here is a quick tour to help you choose yours.
Cut and shape: two different things
The shape is the outline seen from above (round, oval, square…); the cut is the architecture of facets that brings light to life. The same shape can be cut brilliant (triangular facets, maximum brilliance) or step cut (parallel facets, graphic elegance).
The great classic cuts
- The cushion: a square or rectangle with softened corners — THE reigning cut for coloured stones, soft and romantic, and the one that maximises colour;
- The oval: lengthens the finger, makes the most of the rough's weight, generous brilliance — the best beauty-to-price ratio;
- The emerald cut: rectangular step cut with cropped corners. Chic and architectural, it demands a clean stone because it hides very little;
- The Asscher: a square step cut, Art Deco in spirit, with a hypnotic “hall of mirrors” effect;
- The princess: square and brilliant, modern and geometric;
- The pear and the marquise: tapered silhouettes, perfect as pendants.
What the cut really changes
A successful cut comes down to correct proportions: too deep, and the stone looks small for its weight; too shallow, and it “windows”, losing its colour in the centre. This is why two sapphires of the same weight can have very different looks — and very different prices. In producing countries, stones are often cut to preserve weight; the finest pieces are recut to favour beauty.
Which cut is for you?
Romantic: cushion. Luminous classic: oval. Graphic vintage: emerald cut or Asscher. Modern: princess. Best of all is to compare them for real: our collections cover every cut — sapphires, blue gems, pink gems — and our partner bench jeweller designs the bespoke mount that will embrace the cut you choose. Shall we meet in Paris?
